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The Handloom Jala Technique Mechanism | Jala on Handloom | Banarasi Jala technique | Banarasi technique,

Handloom Sari Jala Technique Mechanism: Jala on Handloom Sari |

What is Jala technique?

                    The handloom Jala technique is one of the oldest in the history of weaving. It is used in the 19 th century. Earlier when the design required on fabric the weaver has used the Jala technique. In this technique, we require a Jala frame in which there is the Pagia, Naka and the Khewa is the main important parts of this Jala. It produces both in border and cross-border design on the cloth. In this technique, we used an extra weft to fill the design. The main advantage of this technique is it is easy to produce a corner design means which is located at the joint of the border and cross-border design, said the Bishnupuri weaver of West Bengal. The Baluchuri Silk Saree is famous in Vishnupur in the Bankura district of West Bengal.

Real picture of Jala Mechanism during weaving process- Picture was taken by P. Meher

Jala Technique image

Jala mechanism image

Principle of Naksha:

            The function of Naksha is the same as that of a Jacquard machine in modern weaving. The Naksha arrangement is, therefore, essentially an arrangement by which each warp thread of a unit or repeat of a design is controlled independently and can be selected as such for lifting on any pick, as necessary. The arrangement involves passing each warp thread of the repeat of a design, through a loop, then connecting each loop by some means to a lifting thread, selecting and grouping all such lifting threads to be lifted for each pick in order so as to lift the corresponding warp threads and lift the groups one by one again in order, till all the picks are laid for completing a repeat of the design. 

           A draw boy sits at the back of the loom on a platform over the warp and behind the Pagia and Naksha. The draw boy pulls sidewise the first grouping thread and pulls the vertical Jala in the group by means of a wooden forked implement (Mandha) when the corresponding warp threads for the first pick are lifted. The weaver then inserts the L-shaped instrument (Nangol) hanging from the ceiling below the lifting horizontal Jala to keep the lifted warp threads up until he lays the pick. The draw boy, during this time, releases the Mandha and finds the second grouping thread in order to continue weaving.

            The specimens of traditional designs were previously made with steel pens on mica (Abrak). They were permanent records kept with expert Naksha bandhas. This practice is not usually followed at present. The designs are made on paper. The Naksha of different designs are stored in Computer and whenever a particular design is to be produced again, the required Naksha is taken out of the store.

What is Jala technique?

Ans- Jala technique in weaving is a technique in which the Warp threads are raised through the Jala. Jala is a combination of Pagia, Naka & Khewa. In this technique here Naka has connected to the Warp threads. This is the close substitute for Jacquard Weaving.


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